Marni among this season’s new names


Translated by

Roberta HERRERA

Published



Aug 29, 2023

A total of 108 fashion houses and labels will grace the stage from September 25 to October 3 during Paris Fashion Week, dedicated to the Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collections of the upcoming season. According to the provisional calendar released by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, 41 presentations and 67 shows are on the agenda.

A look from Marni SS23, presented in New York – DR

Iconic brands such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Balmain, Loewe, Hermès, Chloé, Comme des Garçons, and Isabel Marant will be showcasing in Paris along with Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, Acne Studios, Undercover, Miu Miu, Schiaparelli, Sacai, and Balenciaga.

Among the confirmed names are Victoria Beckham, as well as Valentino and The Row. Pierre Cardin, despite the disruptions related to the designer’s legacy during the summer, will also once again be part of the program.

This autumn session also marks the arrival or return of several labels. For instance, Carven, which has enlisted British designer Louise Trotter, is regaining its spot on the calendar, as is Mugler, with American designer Casey Cadwallader as creative director since 2017. Renzo Rosso’s OTB Group seems to be banking on Paris with the return of Maison Margiela and the addition of Marni to the schedule, which showcased in Tokyo last season and in New York last year. Brooklyn-based designer Peter Do has also chosen Paris for this session. The label Casablanca by Charaf Tajer is stepping onto the women’s fashion week runways after presenting in the men’s category during the last season, a move also made by the British label Kiko Kostadinov.

Newcomers also include Duran Lantink, based between Amsterdam and Paris, who presented a contemporary collection of around 40 gender-neutral looks in an off-calendar runway show in Paris last March. The Dutch designer unveiled modern creations that played with volumes and deconstructed elements. Another newcomer is Belgian designer Marie Adam Leenaerdt, a graduate of La Cambre, who specialises in crafting formal silhouettes, including dresses, suits, and evening wear. She will kick off the event on Monday at 4:00 pm.

It’s worth noting that while Aigle and Kimhékim are returning to the presentation agenda after an absence, and Chinese designer Caroline Hu, Australian Christopher Esber, Spanish Paloma Wool, and Italian Quira are making their debuts, a number of names have left the Parisian stage.

Palm Angels, Off-White, Ester Manas, and A.W.A.K.E. Mode will not be showcasing their collections in Paris this season. 

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